Throughout India, there are thousands of temples…some enormous, some tiny, some easily accessible to everyone and some erected and positioned to present a physical and mental challenge for its most dedicated Hindu pilgrims thus making the visit extremely meaningful and memorable for those partaking.
Possibly one of the most famous in India is Pavagadh Temple, high on top of Pavagadhmountain in Champaner in Gujarat. The mountain bursts out of the flat baron landscape and looks almost out of place in such an expanse of nothingness.
Many pilgrims from remote villages walk hundreds of kilometres for weeks to visit this amazing place. The nearest city is Vadodara about fifty kilometres away and from this city also, you will commonly see groups carrying flags indicating their intentions to make the pilgrim trek to the temple.
Upon arrival at the foot of the mountain, if you’ve travelled by foot, the next step is obviously continue by foot. If you’ve come by vehicle, there is a road to the base of the trekking area winding up the mountain in tight hairpin bends. Once at the base of the trekking track, there are two further options. One being by foot up steep paved stairways to the top of the temple or for ₹100 (AU$2) you may take the cable car. The cable car does not take you completely to the top though….there still lies a challenging walk upon disembarking the dangling mid-air pod. For some the ₹100 is far too expensive on their very modest budget and even though some are almost crippled or extremely aged, still they climb. It may take them two to three days to conquer the mountain but they do it and frequently without assistance…..they somehow draw strength from somewhere unknown to complete their personal goal.
Those who’ve travelled by foot take a bath in a small water hole near the final ascent before entering the temple. Everyone visiting is dressed in their finest attire. Amazing saris and Indian clothes are ceremoniously worn.
Many stall holders actually live on the mountain and sell anything from delectable smelling samosa and drinks to souvenirs of many types all for a very reasonable price. This is not a tourist trap so greed does not enter their minds and affordable souvenirs can be purchased.
On the final steep stair climb of approximately two hundred stairs, men sit and chant ‘hai Mitali’ over and over again in a somewhat melodious fashion. Everyone joins in on this vocal accompaniment….it’s like building to a climax. The looks on the faces are of revelation and satisfaction….their goal has been almost achieved.
On the day I visited the temple, I arrived at the base and opted for the cable car ride as I had done the walk the previous year. Like I previously mentioned, once disembarking from the cable car, an elevated trek still lies ahead. I joined the hundreds of Hindus and continued to the top. The last few stairs to the temple are large high stone steps. The frail and aged have trouble with these however they try to do it on their own. It’s difficult to hold back that human nature instinct of helping others at this stage because you can see them struggling but your help is unwanted….they must do it alone.
Shoes are removed before entering this holy place and the smell of incense is strong. Bells ring for pooja ceremonies and fragrant flowers and coconuts are everywhere to gift the gods.
Upon entering the temple, it was all too much for one young woman who broke down and cried openly, hardly being able to support her slight frame to stand upright. This demonstrated to me the dedication and importance of this trek to these people.
The views across this part of Gujarat are stunning. Looking out upon lakes, villages and fields of crops, it’s a part of India only a small percentage of the population have the opportunity to see.
This is Incredible India!
BLOG: An incredible Indian journey with Merryn